Have you ever wondered what lies at the tip of Denmark? A Scandinavian country known for its welfare system and high standard of living, it might come as a surprise to many to speak of Denmark as a tourist destination. However, beyond the widely popular capital, Copenhagen, which is battling overtourism, Denmark hides many beautiful places that pass unnoticed under the tourist radar.
Through Aalborg as a student
I’ve spent the last year enrolled in a master’s degree n Tourism in Aalborg, North Jutland’s capital and the fourth-largest city in Denmark. “What can you do there?”, “Why there?”, and “Isn’t the weather horrible?” were the main reactions among the sceptics to my decision to study in Aalborg.
Nay, I say to them, having taken my leisure time this year very seriously and dedicating large parts of it to exploring the region. There is plenty of proof that both Aalborg and North Jutland hide beautiful landscapes that would surprise many.
What is Aalborg known for?
Among Danes and their fellow Scandinavian neighbours, Aalborg is primarily known for two things.
First, if you have lived in or even just visited Denmark, chances are high you’ve heard of the (in)famous Jomfru Ane Gade, or the street of Virgin Ane. So famous in Denmark that it’s often simply referred to as “gaden” (meaning the street, and pronounced like a bee stung your tongue just at the end of the word), it is a street tightly packed with pubs, bars, and diverse age groups in diverse stages of drunk.
Just as with the street, chances are high you’ve heard of Aalborg’s Karnival, the biggest carnival in Northern Europe, according to some. This one-day event, for better or worse, brings out the craziest and shiniest sides of its visitors. These two phenomena are attractions in themselves worth experiencing, yet there are finer shades to Aalborg beyond wild partying.
Cobbled streets and fairy tale houses – through the historical centre of Aalborg
Lying on a fjord that cuts Denmark’s mainland in two, Aalborg is a city of carefully planned and elegantly executed architecture.
The centre hides historical streets of colourful houses and green gardens so delicately maintained they seem like a setting from one of Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tales. Protestant churches rise above cobbled alleys in their fine subtlety — some built out of earthy bricks, others with a façade of pure white and iron inscriptions marking the year of their birth — they are symbols of the Danish eye for minimalistic expression and elegant design.
World-famous pastry of Denmark, and a lot of cinnamon
Within the historical core, you will find several established bakeries that represent the world-class Danish culture of pastry making.
If you’re a fan of cinnamon, sugar coating, cream, or simply world-class pastry, you’re in the right place. As you marvel the architectural aesthetics of Aalborg, consider upgrading your experience with a cinnamon roll called snegl, which comes in many forms. For those with a more savoury tooth, there are several recognizable hot dog stands, honouring a long-standing Danish sausage tradition.
With a delicious pastry in your hands (or a hot dog), and perhaps a cup of coffee, you might soon find yourself at the fjord. With benches, playgrounds, and green spaces, the waterfront of Aalborg is simultaneously peaceful and lively.
Although an hour’s drive away, the presence of the ocean can be felt next to the fjord, and with it, the ever-tranquil atmosphere in which seagulls fly by over the water (take care of your pastry), music drifts from the speakers at the basketball courts, and conversations unfold in the peace of the water that travels from the ocean, back into the ocean.
Modern architecture – the Danish way
There were rare instances where I would find modern architecture appealing. In Aalborg, however, the modern buildings lying along the fjord are an example of what modern architecture can be. Varying in size and shape, there is a subtle unifying style that creates the atmosphere of a futuristic Lego playground, and a perfected neighbourhood with all aesthetic and practical aspects taken care of.
One of the buildings that particularly stands out is the Utzon Centre, an experiential knowledge centre of architecture and design. Its many sail-like roofs remind of one world-famous building, and with good reason – its architect was Jørn Utzon, the mastermind behind the Sydney Opera House.
From modern to medieval – exploration of a Viking settlement
For those passionate about modernity and futurism, Aalborg is a dream to explore. For those looking for historical contrast, it is not necessary to look much further. Across the fjord, in the city of Nørresundby, lies Lindholm Høje, a graveyard and former medieval settlement from the Viking Age, with an adjacent museum.
Spread over a green hill, graves are marked with stones set in naval shapes, symbolising Viking ships taking their passengers to the other side. The silence of the tombstones creates a hollow atmosphere, only strengthened by a gathering flock of hundreds of crows above in the cloudy sky. But among the graves, dozens of goats carelessly graze the field, breaking the supposed seriousness of the place.
Upon visiting, the goats not only demonstrated a clear lack of fear of the dead, but also of the living – one of them approached me, took a piece of grass from my hand, and even allowed a short petting session.
Aalborg seamlessly combines the old and the new, the historical and the living, the peaceful with the vibrant. Whether you’re a student looking to spend a year in Aalborg or visiting for a day, the city provides inspiration and quite a bit to explore.
Midsummer’s Eve and late-night sunsets in Aalborg
In June, the days are exceedingly long, and the sunlight persistently prolongs its stay well into what is supposed to be nighttime. The 23rd of June marks the summer solstice and the longest day of the year. In Denmark, it is the day of Sankt Hans – Saint John, and what was once a witch-burning event is today a hyggelig, a Danish expression closest translated as “homely”. celebration, with a symbolic fire set up next to the fjord.
Aalborg offers several places to experience beautiful sunsets, as there are a few parks on slightly elevated areas (Denmark is known to be, well, almost completely flat). Walking away from the centre, you will reach Vestre Fjordpark, a spacious park designed for swimming, with numerous recreational facilities where many come to hang out, play volleyball, have a picnic, or take a swim, regardless of the season.
Across the bridge, in Nørresundby, walking west, you will pass through another nature park, perhaps accompanied by dozens of sheep, and finally reach “The End of the World”, a small stretch of sand lying at the waterfront, with a name that truly captures the feeling of the place — far away from any traces of urban noise.
Sand dunes of Scandinavia, on the west coast of Denmark
If you wish to witness a sunset over the horizon above the ocean, drive about an hour west and you will reach Rubjerg Knude, a site known for its desert-like terrain and unique lighthouse. 100-metre sand dunes tower above the sandy beach that stretches south, gradually lowering into the distant grass fields.
The lighthouse, shrouded in a story of its own, is another example of an ingenious approach to architectural solutions in Denmark. Due to erosion of the sand cliffs, the red-capped lighthouse was in danger of collapsing. Gigantic roller skates were placed underneath it, and the lighthouse was moved 12 metres per hour—a total of 70 metres further from the sea.
Bulbjerg Knude – where history meets the ocean
Of a similar name, Bulbjerg Knude lies further south along the west coast. It is the only cliff in the whole of the Jutland Peninsula, and it boasts a view over the North Sea with nothing in sight except an indefinite mass of wind-stirred blue.
Here, history meets nature, as a World War II bunker built into the cliff overlooks the horizon through a thin opening in the concrete. Wide grasslands stretch behind the cliff, gradually shifting from green to gold as they approach the beach. Finally, when the land meets the sea, the sand acts as a barrier—a golden line stretching far into the distance, curving towards the south.
At the top of Denmark – where two seas collide
These concrete pieces of history are spread across the otherwise untouched Danish coast. Several bunkers lie close to Grenen, the very tip of Denmark and a unique place where two seas – Skagerrak and Kattegat – meet. It is a popular attraction and perhaps the only one in North Jutland in danger of overtourism, with the town of Skagen lying in proximity and historically being a highly popular destination for many Danes.
Regardless of the crowds, the tip of Denmark is worthy of its popularity – the east coast and the west coast eventually merge into a single point, and the two seas collide into a surreal image of conflicting waves. Here, seals nest within safety boundaries drawn around them, limiting humans from approaching. Whenever you visit, chances are high you will spot these sea mammals sunbathing and enjoying the sand in infinite cuteness. Both for seals and humans, this is a place of respite and peace.
Slowly but surely, the beauties of North Jutland and Aalborg reveal themselves to the traveller. Shifting sand dunes, infinite beaches, the fishing villages along the fjord, and the many corners of Aalborg do not scream for attention but wait patiently to be recognized.